- For a list of names and links mentioned in this post see the bottom of the article
Once upon a time, you could pick up a simple six-pack of mass-produced swill, enjoy it, and be none the wiser that beer could be so much more.
You might encounter some different styles, but it was dominated by the lager. It was produced by huge national breweries and you could find it everywhere. This remains true, but enter the craft beers to change everything.
My beer experience began later than some. I didn’t drink before I was of age. The very first beer I ever drank was a Big Rock Traditional. I thought it was all right, but drank it slow. I ordered Kokanee now and again but didn’t like it much. Two to three years later I switched to Keith’s, back when it was still hard to find. I drank it more frequently. I was developing a taste for beer. Even then I knew there were different styles of beer, but I couldn’t name any of them, any more than by saying “light” or “dark”.
In 2006 I met a friend at the recently opened 1410 on 17th Ave. He told me they had beer from all over the world, and sure enough, the menu was organized by country. I thought this was pretty cool, and I ordered a beer from Germany. (I know that Bottlescrew Bill’s has been around far longer, with at least 240 beers available. But that’s not where I was that day.) At home I still bought Keith’s, however, a friend would bring over a new beer with every visit, and my time with Keith’s was coming to an end.
The curiosity of tasting a new beer becomes part of drinking beer. A conversation would come up. What does it taste like? What are the flavors? The answers were no longer easy. I was hooked. Where could I find more? When variety is what you’re looking for, craft beer is where you’re going to find it. Well, what is craft? Following changes to Alberta’s liquor laws, it became easier to start up a brewery. Previous restrictions required such high outputs that few could afford the startup investment. But I’m not talking legalities, I’m talking about what craft means to beer. It means small, independent with traditional methods, yet experimental with flavor. Since the change, these craft breweries have been popping up everywhere. They have their regular offerings to appease, but it’s in the experimentation where they build reputations. Suddenly beer is like indie music in the 90’s; everyone wants to talk about their latest discovery. For restaurants, this means carrying at least twenty to thirty beers instead of the previous eight to twelve.
Can you still go out for a simple beer in Calgary? Of course you can. But the market for craft beer has taken off, and there’s no going back. This beer revolution has pushed the prices that the public accepts higher and faster than any other food and beverage category. As a result, the big national breweries have done their part to get in on this, but I don’t think it’s for them. As far as I’m concerned the very definition excludes them. Let’s look at the aptly named “Craft Beer Market” or just “Craft”. Their beer menu contains over a hundred beers, all on tap, organised by style, and I’m not talking “lights and darks”. I went a few months after opening, having heard a great deal about it, and it didn’t disappoint. That first visit was with a beer aficionado friend. He told me our beer journey would start light and travel through the many styles. We enjoyed a mixture of appetizers and entrees and the hours passed. I don’t remember, or can’t if we visited all those styles, but it left quite the impression.
Do you still enjoy your favorite mass-produced beer? Nothing wrong with that if you do. Or are you adventurous and experimental too? Do you want to start expanding your beer horizons? There’s nowhere better to start than Calgary’s own local breweries. My first beer, though I didn’t realize it at the time, was from one of the granddaddies of local beer, Big Rock Brewery. Founded in ‘85 it was joined in ‘89 by Brewsters, and then in ‘96 by Wild Rose. These three preceded the current craft breweries, but aren’t just significant for when they got their start. They each have a history of supporting the local market with innovations, sponsorships, and being encouraging to newcomers.
They’ve been joined by Caravel, Village, Annex Ale, Dandy, Tool Shed, Common Crown, Banded Peak, Cold Garden, High Line, Zero Issue, and Citizen. Any one of these are great and I look forward to trying more. Speaking of more, there are more local breweries coming.
Most of these breweries offer tours to see their facilities, hear their tales, and afterward enjoy a beer in their tasting rooms. However, if that’s further than your enthusiasm goes today, I suggest “National”. Part of the Concorde restaurant group they have quickly grown to four locations in the city. National has about half the beers that Craft does, however with a formidable focus on Alberta breweries. I suggest the Tool Shed People Skills. You can still go to my old favorite too. “1410” from the 933 Group had been called “World Beer Haus” before any of the others. Their menu is no longer listed by country but they’ve kept up with the trends and still have one of the largest selections. I suggest their exclusive from Village Brewery “Holy Grail” it’s a quenching amber ale. If you looking for an option serving their own beer, then I have three to suggest. Two having opened last fall, Trolley 5 and Mill Street. Both on 17th Ave, Trolley 5 was purpose-built on the ground that once was Melrose. They have claimed the title for the patio to be seen on. All their beer is produced on-site, with others on their menu usually from breweries just a few blocks away. Mill Street comes from Labatt, but I won’t hold that against them, as I appreciate their reuse of the historic Costigan House and the investment in the east end of 17th Ave SW. They have an offering of 21 beers and a selection from six other seasonal brews.
Where’s the third? Well, I can’t talk about local beer without talking about “Last Best”. Located on 11th Ave in what you may remember as District, or the Fox Downtown. Last Best has more beers I enjoy than any other. Even the styles that aren’t for me, I enjoy tasting there. While I may agree with accusations that the food is just a little pricey, it is excellent (which if you’ve followed my previously mentioned reasoning, means I accept more often than having issues).
A friend pointed out that Last Best has a monthly beer tasting they call the “Social Club”. I was shocked at the time, a favorite pub of mine, only a half dozen blocks from home, and I didn’t already know about it. We immediately made plans for the following month and I haven’t missed one since! Here’s the lowdown: on the first Wednesday of every month Last Best hosts the Social Club in their lower-level called “The Beer Shop”. Here with a quieter atmosphere and a unique beer list separate from upstairs you’ll find new discoveries to be had. But the real treat is during the Social Club, it’s all about beers that aren’t on the list at all.
Hosted by Last Best’s Adam Sequin, each month introduces a new theme. Since I starting going in June we’ve had the following themes: Sours, Summer Fruit Ales, Gin Pairings, Wild Ales, Lactose Sugars, Barley Wines and most recently Christmas cookie pairings.
Beginning at 8 o’clock the first 10oz samples are brought around, with the others following at roughly half-hour intervals. Adam introduces the beers, discusses the breweries, origins of the brews, and what makes them unique. His understanding and passion for beer is apparent and he adds his own personality to the whole event. In no way is this just a promotional event for Last Best: what it feels like is a secret little club for beer lovers. Frequently this isn’t a solo gig for Adam either as there’ll be representatives from the other breweries featured that night.
Never intimidating or conceited it’s just relaxed and enjoyable.
For me, beer has changed from that simple boring lager to something unique. And like music, I want to share it. Talk about it with like-minded individuals and discover more new favorites. Yes, there’ll be hits and misses. That’s why when you’re adventurous, you start with singles. The next time you’re out, be adventurous. Don’t ask if they have your regular on tap, “because this is a 90’s music store” ask them for their favorite. You’ll hear an elaborate tale about what they like and what they’ve tried. They’ll ask what styles you like. Maybe keeping it easy by using “light and dark”. They’ll tell you about a local brew that they just put on tap tonight that you must try. Then before you leave, having enjoyed this craft adventure, your server will suggest you try their real favorite.
Beer is complicated now, and honestly, I love it.
Restaurants
- www.1410bierhaus.ca
- www.craftbeermarket.ca
- ntnl.ca – National
- trolley5.com
- millstreetbrewery.com
- brewsters.ca
- lastbestbrewing.com
Breweries
- www.annexales.com
- bandedpeakbrewing.com
- brewsters.ca
- caravelbrewery.com
- www.commoncrown.ca
- citizenbrewingcompany.com
- www.coldgarden.ca
- thedandybrewingcompany.com
- highlinebrewing.com
- lastbestbrewing.com
- millstreetbrewery.com
- toolshedbrewing.com
- www.villagebrewery.com
- www.zeroissuebeer.com
Beer & Liquor Stores